The Atlantic Rainforest 

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Paraty is a town surrounded by natural wonders. Its beaches, mountains, islands, waterfalls and forests are as beautiful as you will find anywhere in the world. The lush tropical forest that covers these mountains and islands and that protects these waterfalls and beaches is one of the largest remaining fragments of the “Mata Atlantica”, or Atlantic Rainforest, that was once a single mighty forest that stretched along the coast from the southernmost part of Brazil to the north of Bahia where the equatorial Amazon jungle takes over. The largest cities and the vast majority of Brazil’s population lie within this area and as a result only about 6% of this forest remains – forest that is considered by many biologists to be the most bio-diverse ecosystem on the planet. Put simply, this means that there are more species of plants and animals here than anywhere else you will find, many of which you will find nowhere else. 

So, when you walk down a forest track or look back towards the green-clad mountains as you sail out of Paraty on a boat trip it is worth remembering that you are privileged to be enjoying one of the planet’s true natural wonders. 
 
 

UNDERSTANDING THE ATLANTIC RAINFOREST

Any ecosystem consists of a web of life, plants and animals coexisting within an incredibly complex set of inter-relationships which provides the nourishment and protection which each species needs to survive and which is as delicate as it is beautiful. Because of the extraordinary biodiversity of the Mata Atlantica, this web becomes something so complex that we can never understand it all. Huge trees thrust upwards towards the sunlight which powers the system and in their turn provide shelter in the way of shade or within their branches for other plants and animals that might feed upon the fruits and seeds these trees produce, or that might feed upon the trees themselves by eating their leaves or even sucking out their very sap. These animals might then return the favour by polinising the trees as they move from the flower of one individual to another. Then, when the tree dies, other organisms will feed on its decaying bulk until, when it finally falls to the ground, the space in the forest canopy that opens up, allowing sunlight to descend, will be exploited by other trees that have waited below, thrusting up to take the place of the former giant, and competing for a place at the top. In fact, these are just a few examples of the myriad of relationships in the forest. There are, for example, species of orchids that can be polinised by just one species of insect or bird and there are animal that depend, for a large part of the year, on the fruit of just one species of tree so you can see that each part depends upon another for survival. 
 

THE FOREST AND THE ENVIRONMENT

The Atlantic Rainforest exists in a climate of extremes. Intensely hot sunshine, cool nights, heavy rainfall and occasional periods of weeks without rain together with thin, poor soils have lead to the evolution over millions of years of this ecosystem. The health of the environment depends on the forest because without it, the burning sun dries the soil turning it to dust, the rain then washes it away leading to erosion, quickly leaving the soil barren. Without the protection of the forest canopy, the rain batters the ground ferociously worsening this erosion. The forest is like a giant sponge, soaking up

 

huge amounts of rainfall and then releasing it slowly after the rain has gone regulating the flow of water in the rivers and waterfalls – without it, rivers swell in seconds and wash away everything in their path leading to floods. Then, in dry spells, waterfalls can disappear completely since there is no longer water stored in the forest to feed them. Beneath the sheltering foliage of the forest, temperatures vary little, without it, extremes of heat and cold turn a comfortable environment into a harsh one for many of the native species. So you can see why it is important to preserve this forest. It’s not just the biodiversity – in many cases it is life itself, human life included, that depends on our responsible use of the forest. It is possible for humans to live sustainably within this environment but we need to understand and respect it or we will be the losers. 
 

SOME FOREST HIGHLIGHTS

It is impossible to give a complete account of what this forest has to offer, partly because you would need an encyclopaedia just to list the native species but also because there are undoubtedly many species that are as yet unknown to science! However, here are a few better-known examples of what you might come across while exploring the Atlantic Rainforest in and around Paraty. 
 

Orchids and Bromeliads

For those of you with a liking for beautiful and exotic plants, there are endless wonders waiting for you here. The forest is packed with native orchids and bromelias and you will certainly come across many if you just take a little time to discover the Mata Atlantica. Bromelias are a particular feature – the branches of most trees in the forest are heavy with bromeliads. Their roots provide little in the way of nourishment, they are mostly there to cling to the branches. They feed themselves mostly on the decaying leaves and other organic matter that fall into the cup-like structure their leaves form.

Each cup becomes its own micro-environment as other plants and animals exploit this tiny pond to live lives within lives up there amongst the branches. 
 

Palmito

The Mata Atlantica is particularly blessed with species of palms. One that is beloved of all Brazilians is Palmito Jussara. It grows in the shade of the forest and is as nourishing as it is beautiful – there are more than 60 species of animals (including toucans and many species of monkey) that depend on its cherry-sized fruits for survival. Unfortunately for it though, its palm-heart is a great delicacy. Its removal results in the 
 

 

death of the plant and it takes 10 years for another palmito to reach full maturity. (Watch out for “Ecological” cultivated palmito Pumpunha if you want to try it – it’s delicious too!) 
 

Three-Toed Sloth

If you are lucky you might just spot one of these shy woodland creatures. Its favourite food is the leaves of the Embauba tree whose delicate trunks and spidery branches are impossible to miss in the local forest. Although this food is easy to find it is also not very nourishing which goes a long way to explain this famously lazy creature’s incredibly slow metabolism (and perhaps its slightly bored expression.) 
 

Three-toed sloth (Bradypus variegatus), Amazonas, Brazil. Dr. Zoltan Takacs.
 

Pau Brasil

This beautifully elegant (though thorny!) tree was nearly harvested to extinction in order to extract a red dye used for cloth and fine paint. It didn’t get its name from the

 

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name of the country - it was the country that took the tree’s name because of the fame of this dye!


  

“Tony, Londoner who came to Paraty and fell in love with the Atlantic Rainforest and Nara, a forestry engineer. Together they work on reforestation projects and ecological agriculture. tofeld@hotmail.com narabastos@hotmail.com  “
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Text and Photos by Tony & Nara